Is Ethiopia waiting for budget travelers?
Lately I’ve been stuck on one question: how much does Ethiopia (maybe any country) actually need ordinary travelers? Not tourists on a standard package, and not people with a thick wallet. More and more I’m leaning toward this answer: almost not at all.
Very briefly, a couple of incidents from this trip.
We made a detour—my husband and I, with a local driver—to a place I’d chosen in advance. It’s not a typical tourist stop, but it sounded perfect: hot springs (Bilan Hot Springs), a lodge in a beautiful setting, Aledeghi Wildlife Reserve, where you’re told you might see zebras, antelopes, and even lions resting in the Awash River floodplains. Our friend helped us find the road and a guide, and everything went smoothly—until we tried to check in.
The only nearby place to stay overnight (Animalia Lodge) refused to host us. The owner’s message was simple: no, you won’t stay here—and don’t call again. To be clear, the cottages were empty and the staff were ready to welcome us, but the Italian owner said his “NO.” We were disappointed, but got over it :)
We spent the rest of the day at the hot springs and visited a nearby Afar village, where we were received very warmly. In the evening, the guide offered for us to spend the night at his home—in a simple Afar hut—but our driver chose comfort over exoticism. I still regret that. Instead, we returned to the city so that before dawn we could drive back to look for zebras.
We did find zebras. But if your main goal is wildlife, Ethiopia probably isn’t the best choice.
And this is one example of when you, as a budget traveler, aren’t really needed: if you can’t pay big money, then move along. That attitude, however, doesn’t apply to the ordinary Ethiopian—the one for whom the meaning and value of life aren’t measured in dollars.
Second example:
In the Danakil Depression, already traveling with a group, we met a driver—kind, helpful, and genuinely pleasant. We talked about future trips, routes, car rental. He said: yes, contact me directly (bypassing his employer). I’ll be driver and guide at the same time. Everyone wants to save money. Me too.
But when I later reached out to ask what the price might be for a route I’d chosen—something non-standard, the way I wanted it—I got no answer. Not to the first message, not the second, not even the fifth. And it wasn’t the only case.
If you want a trip tailored to you, not the standard package offered by agencies—and if you’re also traveling on a budget—it can be surprisingly hard to find someone willing to cooperate. Few people want to think through something new, outside the usual. It’s easier to drive the familiar route on autopilot.
But I do want to. I want to see more, and differently, than what’s been shown to tourists for decades. And I know there’s more to see—I’ve been to places like that myself, and I want to show them to my friends too. But I’m almost the only one who seems to want it.
